
77 Chemically Processed Agro-Ingredients
ALCOHOL DENAT.
It has many advantages: excellent solvent, penetration enhancer, cosmetically elegant formation, light formulations, excellent astringent and antimicrobial. Denat means denaturated alcohol and with certain additives.ALPHA-GLUCAN OLIGOSACCHARIDE
A skin defense ingredient obtained from natural sugars via
enzymatic synthesis (sucrose and maltose). It is said to be a
bio-selective substrate which, without doing the same with
pathogens and undesirable flora, protects and stimulates the
beneficial microbial skin flora. It also activates keratinocytes to
release antimicrobial peptides (skin cells).
ARGININE
L-Arginine is an amino acid naturally occurring in the skin. It is an excellent moisturizing agent, it supports the barrier function of the skin
Excellent moisturizing agent
Natural moisturizing factor (NMF)
Supports barrier function of the skin
Neutralizing Agent
It has antioxidant properties
Reference for this information:
Wound Repair and Regeneration, November-December 2003, pages 419-423
European Surgical Research, January-April 2002, issues 1-2, pages 53-60
AROMA
ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE
Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of glucose-combined vitamin C. If correctly formulated and absorbed into the skin, ascorbic acid breaks down (pure vitamin C). It acts as an antioxidant and works well with other replenishing and antioxidant ingredients to sustain the skin needs to look cleaner, clearer, and younger as key substances.
AZULENE
Chamomile extract is used mainly in cosmetics as a colouring
agent. It can have skin-soothing and antioxidant effects.
CALCIUM PCA
Calcium PCA is physiological vector of calcium for skin strengthening, which is a key component of skin’s natural moisturizing factor, or NMF. The NMF plays a role in keeping skin’s barrier healthy and intact.
Calcium plays a critical role in skin, influencing how new cells are formed and how they move from the lower layer (dermis) to the surface (epidermis). Within skin’s layers, calcium serves to orchestrate many aspects of maintenance and repair.
Topically, calcium PCA helps for the reactivation of cellular cohesion and intensive restoration of the epidermis. It also helps with the preservation of dermal fiber degradation to keep younger looking skin..
References for this information:
Annals of Dermatology, June 2018, pages 265-275
Experimental Gerontology, August 2015, pages 59-65
European Journal of Dermatology, November-December 2014, pages 650-661
Yonsei Medical Journal, June 2006, pages 293-306
CAMPHOR
Camphor is obtained from the bark of the tree Cinnamonun camphora. Only 50-years old trees produce a waxy substance which is used as camphor oil.
On the skin it acts as a counter irritant and is therefore used topically to relieve pain. It causes numbness of sensory nerve endings of skin, thereby reliving pain and inflammation, and preventing skin redness
CANNABIS SATIVA LEAF EXTRACT
This amber and viscous cannabidiol intensive oil is derived from Cannabis sativa L. leaves of cultivars listed in the EU Plant variety database with earthy smell and taste with notes of pine and pepper. As a consequence of the presence of non-psychoactive cannabinoids, it contains antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-nausea properties. Antimicrobial, anti-epileptic and anticonvulsive properties have also been reported.
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
Caprylic
/Capric Triglyceride is an oily liquid made from
coconut oil. Triglycerides from plant origin. It
slows the loss of water from the skin by
forming a barrier on the skin’s surface.
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC/SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE
This works as an emollient. Combined with excellent lubrication effects, it provides higher viscosity and medium to slow spread. It gives a rich but elegant sensation to the skin and provides extra emulsion stability and allows two-phase products with an aqueous base to be formulated.
CAPRYLOYL GLYCINE
Capryloyl glycine is a lipid amino acid. It is obtained by acylation of glycine to the octanoyl fatty chain.The combination is beneficial in skin moisture retention and collagen synthesis. It can regulate alkaline-acidity, balance the skin’s environment, prevent excessive keratinisation and inhibit harmful microbes. So it brings unique, multiple functions to personal care, including:
Moisturising
Anti-wrinkle
Acne care
Dandruff removal
Improvement of seborrheic dermatitis symptoms
Enhancement of antiseptic effects in formulations.
CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE
Alkyl glucoside ingredients are formed by reacting an alcohol or mixtures of alcohols (that vary by carbon chain length) with a cyclic form of the sugar, glucose or glucose polymers. Capryl glucoside is reported to function as surfactants - cleansing agent.
CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL WHEAT BRAN/STRAW GLYCOSIDES
The substance obtained by glycosylation of a mixture of caprylyl and capryl alcohols with the monosaccharides extracted from hydrolyzed wheat bran and hydrolyzed wheat straw is Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides. It includes agents for foaming and cleansing.
CARRAGEENAN
Carrageenans or carrageenins ('little rock' from Irish carraigín) are a family of linear sulfated polysaccharides isolated from red edible seaweeds. It is water soluble biopolymer that thickening and forms a film brittle gel
CELLULOSE GUM
Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) or cellulose gum[1] is a cellulose derivative with carboxymethyl groups (-CH2-COOH) bound to some of the hydroxyl groups of the glucopyranose monomers that make up the cellulose backbone.It is polymer with a clarified solution dissolved in cold or hot water. It functions as a thickening rheology modifier, moisture retention agent.
CETEARYL ALCOHOL
Wax derived from coconut
oil. As an emollient gives skin a smooth velvety
feel. It maintains the skin barrier, preventing
the loss of water.
CITRIC ACID
Citric acid is a weak acid found commonly in both plants and animals. For example, lemon juice, which contains around 5-8 percent citric acid, is a natural ingredient popular in citrus fruits. It can act as a preservative, pH regulator, stabilizer and acidulant.
CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIA FRUIT OIL
The essential oil of the bergamot orange comes from the fruit (probably the rind). In perfumes, it is a popular top note and contains (among others) fragrant compounds of limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8 percent ).
COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE
A light emollient ester that rapidly absorbs and leaves a dry yet silky finish on the skin (C8-10 fatty acids related to C12-18 fatty alcohols). It is similar in terms of skin feeling to Dicaprylyl Carbonate, another light emollient widely used.
COCO-GLUCOSIDE
Coconut cleansing factors. Their origin derive from coconut plant. They have excellent skin compatibility and offer the skin a gentle treatment.
DECYL GLUCOSIDE
These days, Decyl Glucoside is a very common ingredient because it comes from maize and coconuts, so it is safe, and bidegradable, too. It is a mild and soft surfactant and is suitable for the formulation of personal hygiene and toiletry products because it does not dry the skin.
DIPALMITOYL HYDROXYPROLINE
It is both very readily absorbed by the skin and serves a threefold structuring action: rejuvenation; strong, long-lasting lipophilic hydration; and anti-aging. A lipo-compatible ester of collagen metabolites.DISODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE
A cleansing agent derived from coconut
ERYTHRITOL
It acts as a moisturizing and humectating agent. Using a yeast fermentation process, it is extracted from grapes, melons and fermented foods. This removes both stickiness and gross odor
EXTRACT
FUSEL WHEAT BRAN/STRAW GLYCOSIDES
The substance obtained by glycosylation of fusel oil-derived alcohols with monosaccharides derived from hydrolysed wheat bran and hydrolyzed wheat straw is Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides. It serves as a solvent and an emulsifier.
GLUCONOLACTONE
Gluconolactone is derived from fruit juice, honey and wine. It is composed of multiple water-attracting hydroxyl groups, which hydrate the skin, resulting in enhanced degrees of moisturization. Gluconolactone is capable of chelating metals and may also function by scavenging free radicals, thereby protecting skin from some of the damaging effects of UV radiation.
GLYCERIN
Also called glycerol it is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats, coconut and palm oil, and by fermentation of sugars. Glycerin is a humectant and extremely hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water from other sources. So, in part, glycerin works because of its ability to attract water from the environment and from the lower layers of skin (dermis) increasing the amount of water in the surface layers of skin. Another aspect of glycerin’s benefit is that it is a skin-identical ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin. In that respect it is one of the many substances in skin that help maintain the outer barrier and prevent dryness or scaling.
Glycerin is a moisturizing agent which attracts water to the skin. Helps skin absorb moisture and is helpful in pulling oxygen and bringing it into the skin.
GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE
Glyceryl Caprylate is a natural alcohol that acts as a natural emulsifier. Glyceryl Caprylate is esterified with vegetable fatty acids and fruit acids.
GLYCERYL OLEATE
Fatty acid monoglyceride glyceryl oleate from
sunflower oil.
GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE
It is made of glycerin and fatty acids. Acts as
lubricant on the surface of the skin, which gives the skin a soft and smooth
appearance.
HYDROGENATED AVOCADO OIL
It is made from processed organic avocado oil and moisturizes and softens the skin.
HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN OIL
When hydrogen is added to soybean oil, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil results. It functions as a nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent, a skin-conditioning agent and an emulsifier.
HYDROLYZED CANNABIS SATIVA SEED EXTRACT
This amber and viscous cannabidiol intensive oil is derived from Cannabis sativa L. leaves of cultivars listed in the EU Plant variety database with earthy smell and taste with notes of pine and pepper. As a consequence of the presence of non-psychoactive cannabinoids, it contains antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-nausea properties. Antimicrobial, anti-epileptic and anticonvulsive properties have also been reported.
HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
The acid or enzymatic hydrolysis of wheat gluten produces hydrolyzed wheat proteins. This process leads to a water-soluble substance that can be used both in food preparations and in cosmetic emulsions, helping to homogenize and stabilize the product.
ILLITE
Illite is a natural thickener from mineral sources, which also has strong absorbent properties and is often referred to as French green clay. It has a greater ability to relax irritated skin by impacting skin factors that can contribute to health problems.
ISOAMYL LAURATE
A colorless to yellowish oily liquid naturally derived (Ecocert approved) which is touted as a natural silicone substitute. Soft but loving, velvety, silky and non-sticky, it is said to have great sensory properties.
LACTIC ACID
Lactic acid is our body’s natural skin moisturizer, being natural to the human body dramatically improves the safety profile and results of the products.
Lactic acid is superior to all other AHAs (70-95% more effective than glycolic acid) at increasing hyaluronic acid deposition in the skin, and therefore is the AHA of choice for increasing the skin’s natural moisture content. Recent research has shown that AHAs stimulate skin moisturization via a natural cell “wound healing” mechanism and since Lactic acid is the natural “cell signal” AHA, it produces even more dramatic results.
MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE
Magnesium aluminum silicate is a naturally occurring mineral derived from montmorillonite Group 1 silicate ores. It is refined to a powder for use as an absorbent, anticaking agent, opacifying agent, viscosity-increasing agent, suspending agent in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.
MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE
Magnesium Chloride is a colorless crystalline substance that exists naturally as the bischofite mineral. Magnesium Chloride serves as a flavoring agent and an aqueous agent that increases viscosity.
MAGNESIUM PCA
Magnesium PCA is the PCA magnesium salt (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), which is part of the intercellular matrix of the skin. It thus plays an influential role in the natural moisturizing component of what is known as the skin.
Magnesium plays a role as an electrolyte mineral in improving skin hydration and barrier repair.
MAGNESIUM STEARATE
A finewhite powder with a faint fatty odor is Magnesium Stearate. It is used for its lubricating properties in general. It also helps prevent emulsions from splitting into their oil and liquid components, increases the lipid (oil) portion thickness of cosmetics and personal care products, and decreases the appearance of finished products in a clear or translucent manner.
MAGNESIUM SULFATE
Magnesium Sulfate is a white crystalline compound, sometimes called epsom salt. Magnesium Sulfate is a solid, non-reactive ingredient that is used to dilute other solids or to boost a product's amount.
MANGANESE PCA
- Humectant: preserves a cosmetic's water content in its packaging and on the skin
- Hydrating: Raises the skin's water content and helps to keep it smooth and soft.
- Skin conditioning: Maintains a healthy condition of the skin
OLEA EUROPAEA OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES
They contain both squalane and squalene, building blocks in the production of lipids. They are very important in maintaining good skin health and a youthful appearance. Both squalane and squalene interact with glycolipids present in the skin. They help maintain skins barrier properties and flexibility and help maintain suppleness. Olive oil unsaponifiables contain a variety of compounds. Each of these compounds plays a vital role in skin health.
PALMITIC ACID
In cosmetics, palmitic acid has many functions, from detergent washing agent to emollient, fatty acid naturally present in skin. In a cleanser, depending on what it is paired with and the pH level of the cleanser, it has the capacity to dry. Palmitic acid is a very strong emollient in moisturisers.
POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE
W/O-emulsifier for the preparation of all kind of W/O emulsions
POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE
A plant-based ingredient (aka W/O emulsifier) that helps water mix with oil. It is particularly good for soft to low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions that feel like lip balms or thick body butters with non-greasy, pleasant skin.
POLYGLYCERYL-5 OLEATE
A vegetable vegetable co- emulsifier from natural plant glycerin and fatty acids.
POTASSIUM SORBATE
PROPANEDIOL
A100% Vegatable
Derived Replacement for Synthetically Derived Dry Esters. Excellent spresding,
great cleansing ability, satin-smooth effect, remarkable skin feel.
PULLULAN
Pullulan is a polysaccharide developed by cultivating the yeast, Aureobasidium pullulans, from starch. Used for skin care, hair care and cleansing products to create luxurious smoothness, leaving a natural silicone-like sensation on the skin.
RIBOSE
Obtained by biotechnology from corn seeds. This energizes the skin and oxygenizes it. This decreases wrinkles, increases the elasticity of the skin and improves the complexion.
SALICYLIC ACID
Salicylic acid naturally occurs in the willow tree bark, Salix alba, which is used as an ultraviolet light absorber to protect cosmetics and personal care products from UV ray degradation
SILICA
The mineral is found extensively in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in plant and animal pieces. Silica can be synthetically manufactured as well and is used in cosmetics as an absorbent powder and thickening agent. The absorption of other ingredients can be increased by silica particles.
SODIUM BENZOATE
Sodium benzoate is a preservative, which is used most prevalently in foods. It is found naturally in cranberries, prunes, greengage plums, cinnamon, ripe cloves, and apples. It has bacteriostatic and fungistatic action.
SODIUM CARBONATE
Sodium Carbonate is a crystalline powder that is grayish-white. It is used for the control of cosmetic products' thacid-base balance. Sodium Bicarbonate can also be used as an abrasive, a deodorant agent, and an oral care agent in cosmetics and personal care products.
SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE
Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is the sodium salt of a stearyl sulfate and cetyl mixture. It is a powder which is white or faintly yellow. It serves as a cleansing agent for surfactants.
SODIUM CHLORIDE
Sodium chloride the main salt that affects the maintenance of isotonicity of blood and tissues, thus affecting the balance of fluids and electrolytes. Properties :
SODIUM CITRATE
Sodium citrate serves in cosmetic products as a buffering agent to regulate their pH level. It can be used as a preservative as well. It is used in various beauty products, such as baby products, make-up, bath products, colors and hair dyes, and products for skin care.
SODIUM COCO SULFATE
For those ingredients with Coco in the name, coconut oil is the source of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols are the primary components of the alkyl sulfate ingredients. The fatty alcohols are obtained from natural plant and animal fats and oils. It acts as an an anionic surfactant.
SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE
A clear, yellowish liquid that functions as an agent for cleansing. It has a so-called amphoteric structure, which means that both a positive and a negatively charged component are in its head (surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge). With great foaming properties, its structure makes Sodium Cocoamphoacetate very mild.
SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE
It is derived from natural sources such as coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and fermented sugar.Sodium cocoyl glutamate's specific washing and foaming properties make it suitable for use in personal items. Sodium cocoyl glutamate prevents the skin from drying and retains its moisture quality.
SODIUM GLUCONATE
Gluconic acid, the neutralized form. Neutralizing metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product is a great ingredient. This helps to avoid discoloration of the formula or rancidity of cosmetic oils over time. It can also be a pH regulator and a moisturizer (helps skin to cling onto water).
SODIUM HYALURONATE
Hyaluronic acid has many key roles in skin health;
contributing to the resilience and pliability of your skin, regulating immune
and inflammatory responses, maintaining moisture levels, and regulating tissue
repair.
SODIUM PCA
As children, our skin possesses an abundant supply of this remarkable compound. This substance, in addition to keeping our skin soft and wrinkle-free, actually serves to attract water into the skin from the surrounding air. As we age, the level of Sodium PCA drops 50% or more. This high-performance humectant is derived from amino acids. It is recommended for dry, delicate and sensitive skin.
SODIUM STEAROYL LACTYLATE
Sodium Stearoyl
Lactylate is a natural, food-grade, emulsifiers derived from the sodium salt of
lactic acid. Offering unsurpassed skin moisturization, and a smooth feel on the application it is commonly used in natural products. As an emulsifier, sodium stearoyl lactylate, or SSL, enables liquids
that do not mix, such as oil and water, to remain suspended together
without separating.
SQUALANE
Olive Squalane .is a
natural component of human sebum and has emollient properties that soften and
soothe skin. It adds a layer of oil on the skin that helps to slow water loss
and keep skin soft and supple.Squalane has humectant properties that increase
the water retention capacity of the skin. Moisturizers help protect sensitive
skin, prevent dryness, improves skin tone and texture. Squalane is a natural
lubricant and skin barrier that helps protect the skin and prevent moisture
loss. It also has a high penetration efficiency that makes it an excellent
transport system that helps the skin absorb other ingredients.
STEARIC ACID
Stearic acid is actually a mix of stearic acid and palmitic acid. It soothes, softens and is an emulsifier.
SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE
Due to their plant origin, very high biodegradability, and skin tolerability, sucrose esters have been used in cosmetics. Lipophilic derivatives have at least two or three moles of fatty acid, with sucrose polystearate being the predominant form. Their primary feature is that they allow highly transparent lipogels to be prepared, which also contain one part of water and related active ingredients. It acts as an emulsifier and a humidating factor.
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
Tocopheryl acetate is a specific form of vitamin-E that is used in the food and personal care industries. Vitamin-E is a substance in the human skin that occurs naturally. It can be synthetic or derived from wheat or vegetable oils in a natural way. Vitamin-E contains large quantities of beneficial antioxidants that help combat signs of aging and stressors in the setting.
TREHALOSE
Trehalose 100 is a cosmetic grade trehalose, which is a non-reducing disaccharide that occurs naturally. It acts as a moisturizing and protecting agent which, even under extremely dry conditions, protects the skin and hair from dehydration. Trehalose is well known for its regenerative potential and can be found in a wide range of plants and animals that can tolerate extended desiccation cycles.
TRIHEPTANOIN
Triheptanoin is triglyceride of natural origin that is composed of three seven-carbon fatty acids. It retains water content of skin by forming a barrier on the skins surface.
XANTHAN GUM
A sugar polymer collected from leafy green plants,
it is naturally occurring thickening agent.
ZINC OXIDE
Zinc Oxide (ZnO) is powdered, oxidized zinc derived from the naturally occurring mineral, zincite, and is commonly used in a wide range of consumer products. It is used as a bulking agent, a colorant, and as a sunscreen in over-the-counter (OTC) drug products.
ZINC SULFATE
Zinc Sulfate is a colorless crystalline compound, resulting from the interaction of zinc with sulfuric acid.. Zinc Sulfate functions as a cosmetic astringent, a cosmetic biocide and as an oral care agent
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