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77 Chemically Processed Agro-Ingredients




ALCOHOL DENAT.

It has many advantages: excellent solvent, penetration enhancer, cosmetically elegant formation, light formulations, excellent astringent and antimicrobial. Denat means denaturated  alcohol and with certain additives.

ALPHA-GLUCAN OLIGOSACCHARIDE

 A skin defense ingredient obtained from natural sugars via enzymatic synthesis (sucrose and maltose). It is said to be a bio-selective substrate which, without doing the same with pathogens and undesirable flora, protects and stimulates the beneficial microbial skin flora. It also activates keratinocytes to release antimicrobial peptides (skin cells).

ARGININE

L-Arginine is an amino acid naturally occurring in the skin. It is an excellent moisturizing agent, it supports the barrier function of the skin

Excellent moisturizing agent

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF)

Supports barrier function of the skin

Neutralizing Agent

It has antioxidant properties


Reference for this information:
Wound Repair and Regeneration, November-December 2003, pages 419-423


European Surgical Research, January-April 2002, issues 1-2, pages 53-60

AROMA

 

ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE

 Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of glucose-combined vitamin C. If correctly formulated and absorbed into the skin, ascorbic acid breaks down (pure vitamin C). It acts as an antioxidant and works well with other replenishing and antioxidant ingredients to sustain the skin needs to look cleaner, clearer, and younger as key substances.

AZULENE

 Chamomile extract is used mainly in cosmetics as a colouring agent. It can have skin-soothing and antioxidant effects.

CALCIUM PCA

Calcium PCA  is physiological vector of calcium for skin strengthening, which is a key component of skin’s natural moisturizing factor, or NMF. The NMF plays a role in keeping skin’s barrier healthy and intact.

Calcium plays a critical role in skin, influencing how new cells are formed and how they move from the lower layer (dermis) to the surface (epidermis). Within skin’s layers, calcium serves to orchestrate many aspects of maintenance and repair.

Topically, calcium PCA helps  for the reactivation of cellular cohesion and intensive restoration of the epidermis. It also helps with the preservation of dermal fiber degradation to keep younger looking skin..

References for this information:
Annals of Dermatology, June 2018, pages 265-275
Experimental Gerontology, August 2015, pages 59-65
European Journal of Dermatology, November-December 2014, pages 650-661
Yonsei Medical Journal, June 2006, pages 293-306

CAMPHOR

 Camphor is obtained from the bark of the tree Cinnamonun camphora. Only 50-years old trees produce a waxy substance which is used as camphor oil.

On the skin it acts as a counter irritant and is therefore used topically to relieve pain. It causes numbness of sensory nerve endings of skin, thereby reliving pain and inflammation, and preventing skin redness

CANNABIS SATIVA LEAF EXTRACT

This amber and viscous cannabidiol intensive oil is derived from Cannabis sativa L. leaves of cultivars listed in the EU Plant variety database with earthy smell and taste with notes of pine and pepper. As a consequence of the presence of non-psychoactive cannabinoids, it contains antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-nausea properties. Antimicrobial, anti-epileptic and anticonvulsive properties have also been reported.

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE

 Caprylic /Capric Triglyceride is an oily liquid made from coconut oil. Triglycerides from plant origin. It slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface.

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC/SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE

 This works as an emollient. Combined with excellent lubrication effects, it provides higher viscosity and medium to slow spread. It gives a rich but elegant sensation to the skin and provides extra emulsion stability and allows two-phase products with an aqueous base to be formulated.

CAPRYLOYL GLYCINE

 Capryloyl glycine is a lipid amino acid. It is obtained by acylation of glycine to the octanoyl fatty chain.The combination is beneficial in skin moisture retention and collagen synthesis. It can regulate alkaline-acidity, balance the skin’s environment, prevent excessive keratinisation and inhibit harmful microbes. So it brings unique, multiple functions to personal care, including:
Moisturising
Anti-wrinkle
Acne care
Dandruff removal
Improvement of seborrheic dermatitis symptoms
Enhancement of antiseptic effects in formulations.

CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE

 Alkyl glucoside ingredients are formed by reacting an alcohol or mixtures of alcohols (that vary by carbon chain length) with a cyclic form of the sugar, glucose or glucose polymers. Capryl glucoside is reported to function as surfactants - cleansing agent.

CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL WHEAT BRAN/STRAW GLYCOSIDES

The substance obtained by glycosylation of a mixture of caprylyl and capryl alcohols with the monosaccharides extracted from hydrolyzed wheat bran and hydrolyzed wheat straw is Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides. It includes agents for foaming and cleansing.

CARRAGEENAN

Carrageenans or carrageenins ('little rock' from Irish carraigín) are a family of linear sulfated polysaccharides isolated from red edible seaweeds. It is water soluble biopolymer that thickening and forms a film brittle gel

CELLULOSE GUM

Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) or cellulose gum[1] is a cellulose derivative with carboxymethyl groups (-CH2-COOH) bound to some of the hydroxyl groups of the glucopyranose monomers that make up the cellulose backbone.It is polymer with a clarified solution dissolved in cold or hot water. It functions as a thickening rheology modifier, moisture retention agent.

CETEARYL ALCOHOL

 Wax derived from coconut oil. As an emollient gives skin a smooth velvety feel. It maintains the skin barrier, preventing the loss of water.

CITRIC ACID

 Citric acid is a weak acid found commonly in both plants and animals. For example, lemon juice, which contains around 5-8 percent citric acid, is a natural ingredient popular in citrus fruits. It can act as a preservative, pH regulator, stabilizer and acidulant.

CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIA FRUIT OIL

 The essential oil of the bergamot orange comes from the fruit (probably the rind). In perfumes, it is a popular top note and contains (among others) fragrant compounds of limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8 percent ).

COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE

 A light emollient ester that rapidly absorbs and leaves a dry yet silky finish on the skin (C8-10 fatty acids related to C12-18 fatty alcohols). It is similar in terms of skin feeling to Dicaprylyl Carbonate, another light emollient widely used.

COCO-GLUCOSIDE

Coconut cleansing factors. Their origin derive from coconut plant. They have excellent skin compatibility and offer the skin a gentle treatment.

 

DECYL GLUCOSIDE

 These days, Decyl Glucoside is a very common ingredient because it comes from maize and coconuts, so it is safe, and bidegradable, too. It is a mild and soft surfactant and is suitable for the formulation of personal hygiene and toiletry products because it does not dry the skin.

DIPALMITOYL HYDROXYPROLINE

It is both very readily absorbed by the skin and serves a threefold structuring action: rejuvenation; strong, long-lasting lipophilic hydration; and anti-aging. A lipo-compatible ester of collagen metabolites.

DISODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE

A cleansing agent derived from coconut

ERYTHRITOL

 It acts as a moisturizing and humectating agent. Using a yeast fermentation process, it is extracted from grapes, melons and fermented foods. This removes both stickiness and gross odor

EXTRACT

FUSEL WHEAT BRAN/STRAW GLYCOSIDES

The substance obtained by glycosylation of fusel oil-derived alcohols with monosaccharides derived from hydrolysed wheat bran and hydrolyzed wheat straw is Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides. It serves as a solvent and an emulsifier.

GLUCONOLACTONE

Gluconolactone is derived from fruit juice, honey and wine. It is composed of multiple water-attracting hydroxyl groups, which hydrate the skin, resulting in enhanced degrees of moisturization. Gluconolactone is capable of chelating metals and may also function by scavenging free radicals, thereby protecting skin from some of the damaging effects of UV radiation.


GLYCERIN


Also called glycerol it is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats, coconut and palm oil, and by fermentation of sugars. Glycerin is a humectant and extremely hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water from other sources. So, in part, glycerin works because of its ability to attract water from the environment and from the lower layers of skin (dermis) increasing the amount of water in the surface layers of skin. Another aspect of glycerin’s benefit is that it is a skin-identical ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin. In that respect it is one of the many substances in skin that help maintain the outer barrier and prevent dryness or scaling.

Glycerin is a moisturizing agent which attracts water to the skin. Helps skin absorb moisture and is helpful in pulling oxygen and bringing it into the skin.


 

GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE

Glyceryl Caprylate is a natural alcohol that acts as a natural emulsifier. Glyceryl Caprylate is esterified with vegetable fatty acids and fruit acids.

 

GLYCERYL OLEATE

  Fatty acid monoglyceride glyceryl oleate from sunflower oil.

GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE

 It is made of glycerin and fatty acids. Acts as lubricant on the surface of the skin, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance.

HYDROGENATED AVOCADO OIL

 It is made from processed organic avocado oil and moisturizes and softens the skin.

HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN OIL

 When hydrogen is added to soybean oil, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil results. It functions as a nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent, a skin-conditioning agent and an emulsifier.

HYDROLYZED CANNABIS SATIVA SEED EXTRACT

 This amber and viscous cannabidiol intensive oil is derived from Cannabis sativa L. leaves of cultivars listed in the EU Plant variety database with earthy smell and taste with notes of pine and pepper. As a consequence of the presence of non-psychoactive cannabinoids, it contains antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-nausea properties. Antimicrobial, anti-epileptic and anticonvulsive properties have also been reported.

HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN

 The acid or enzymatic hydrolysis of wheat gluten produces hydrolyzed wheat proteins. This process leads to a water-soluble substance that can be used both in food preparations and in cosmetic emulsions, helping to homogenize and stabilize the product.

ILLITE

 Illite is a natural thickener from mineral sources, which also has strong absorbent properties and is often referred to as French green clay. It has a greater ability to relax irritated skin by impacting skin factors that can contribute to health problems.

ISOAMYL LAURATE

 A colorless to yellowish oily liquid naturally derived (Ecocert approved) which is touted as a natural silicone substitute. Soft but loving, velvety, silky and non-sticky, it is said to have great sensory properties.

LACTIC ACID

Lactic acid is our body’s natural skin moisturizer, being natural to the human body dramatically improves the safety profile and results of the products.

Lactic acid is superior to all other AHAs (70-95% more effective than glycolic acid) at increasing hyaluronic acid deposition in the skin, and therefore is the AHA of choice for increasing the skin’s natural moisture content. Recent research has shown that AHAs stimulate skin moisturization via a natural cell “wound healing” mechanism and since Lactic acid is the natural “cell signal” AHA, it produces even more dramatic results.


MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE

 Magnesium aluminum silicate is a naturally occurring mineral derived from montmorillonite Group 1 silicate ores. It is refined to a powder for use as an absorbent, anticaking agent, opacifying agent, viscosity-increasing agent, suspending agent in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE

 Magnesium Chloride is a colorless crystalline substance that exists naturally as the bischofite mineral. Magnesium Chloride serves as a flavoring agent and an aqueous agent that increases viscosity.

MAGNESIUM PCA

Magnesium PCA is the PCA magnesium salt (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), which is part of the intercellular matrix of the skin. It thus plays an influential role in the natural moisturizing component of what is known as the skin.
Magnesium plays a role as an electrolyte mineral in improving skin hydration and barrier repair.

MAGNESIUM STEARATE

A finewhite powder with a faint fatty odor is Magnesium Stearate. It is used for its lubricating properties in general. It also helps prevent emulsions from splitting into their oil and liquid components, increases the lipid (oil) portion thickness of cosmetics and personal care products, and decreases the appearance of finished products in a clear or translucent manner.

MAGNESIUM SULFATE

 Magnesium Sulfate is a white crystalline compound, sometimes called epsom salt. Magnesium Sulfate is a solid, non-reactive ingredient that is used to dilute other solids or to boost a product's amount.

MANGANESE PCA

  1.  Humectant: preserves a cosmetic's water content in its packaging and on the skin
  2. Hydrating: Raises the skin's water content and helps to keep it smooth and soft.
  3. Skin conditioning: Maintains a healthy condition of the skin

OLEA EUROPAEA OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES

They contain both squalane and squalene, building blocks in the production of lipids. They are very important in maintaining good skin health and a youthful appearance. Both squalane and squalene interact with glycolipids present in the skin. They help maintain skins barrier properties and flexibility and help maintain suppleness. Olive oil unsaponifiables contain a variety of compounds. Each of these compounds plays a vital role in skin health.

 

PALMITIC ACID

 In cosmetics, palmitic acid has many functions, from detergent washing agent to emollient, fatty acid naturally present in skin. In a cleanser, depending on what it is paired with and the pH level of the cleanser, it has the capacity to dry. Palmitic acid is a very strong emollient in moisturisers.

POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE

 W/O-emulsifier for the preparation of all kind of W/O emulsions

POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE

 A plant-based ingredient (aka W/O emulsifier) that helps water mix with oil. It is particularly good for soft to low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions that feel like lip balms or thick body butters with non-greasy, pleasant skin.

POLYGLYCERYL-5 OLEATE

A vegetable vegetable co- emulsifier from natural plant glycerin and fatty acids.

POTASSIUM SORBATE

 

PROPANEDIOL

 A100% Vegatable Derived Replacement for Synthetically Derived Dry Esters. Excellent spresding, great cleansing ability, satin-smooth effect, remarkable skin feel.

PULLULAN

 Pullulan is a polysaccharide developed by cultivating the yeast, Aureobasidium pullulans, from starch. Used for skin care, hair care and cleansing products to create luxurious smoothness, leaving a natural silicone-like sensation on the skin.

RIBOSE

 Obtained by biotechnology from corn seeds. This energizes the skin and oxygenizes it. This decreases wrinkles, increases the elasticity of the skin and improves the complexion.

SALICYLIC ACID

Salicylic acid naturally occurs in the willow tree bark, Salix alba, which is used as an ultraviolet light absorber to protect cosmetics and personal care products from UV ray degradation

SILICA

 The mineral is found extensively in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in plant and animal pieces. Silica can be synthetically manufactured as well and is used in cosmetics as an absorbent powder and thickening agent. The absorption of other ingredients can be increased by silica particles.

SODIUM BENZOATE

Sodium benzoate is a preservative, which is used most prevalently in foods. It is found naturally in cranberries, prunes, greengage plums, cinnamon, ripe cloves, and apples. It has bacteriostatic and fungistatic action.

 

SODIUM CARBONATE

 Sodium Carbonate is a crystalline powder that is grayish-white. It is used for the control of cosmetic products' thacid-base balance. Sodium Bicarbonate can also be used as an abrasive, a deodorant agent, and an oral care agent in cosmetics and personal care products.

SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE

 Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is the sodium salt of a stearyl sulfate and cetyl mixture. It is a powder which is white or faintly yellow. It serves as a cleansing agent for surfactants.

SODIUM CHLORIDE

Sodium chloride the main salt that affects the maintenance of isotonicity of blood and tissues, thus affecting the balance of fluids and electrolytes. Properties : 

Bulking: Decreases the 
apparent cosmetic density 


Masking: Eliminates or prevents the 
product's odor or essential taste 

Oral care: Provides an 
oral cavity with cosmetic results 
(cleaning, deodorization and protection) 

Regulation of viscosity: Increases or 
reduces the viscosity of cosmetics


SODIUM CITRATE

 Sodium citrate serves in cosmetic products as a buffering agent to regulate their pH level. It can be used as a preservative as well. It is used in various beauty products, such as baby products, make-up, bath products, colors and hair dyes, and products for skin care.

SODIUM COCO SULFATE

 For those ingredients with Coco in the name, coconut oil is the source of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols are the primary components of the alkyl sulfate ingredients. The fatty alcohols are obtained from natural plant and animal fats and oils. It acts as an an anionic surfactant.

SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE

 A clear, yellowish liquid that functions as an agent for cleansing. It has a so-called amphoteric structure, which means that both a positive and a negatively charged component are in its head (surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge). With great foaming properties, its structure makes Sodium Cocoamphoacetate very mild.

SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE

It is derived from natural sources such as coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and fermented sugar.Sodium cocoyl glutamate's specific washing and foaming properties make it suitable for use in personal items. Sodium cocoyl glutamate prevents the skin from drying and retains its moisture quality.

SODIUM GLUCONATE

 Gluconic acid, the neutralized form. Neutralizing metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product is a great ingredient. This helps to avoid discoloration of the formula or rancidity of cosmetic oils over time. It can also be a pH regulator and a moisturizer (helps skin to cling onto water).

SODIUM HYALURONATE

Hyaluronic acid has many key roles in skin health; contributing to the resilience and pliability of your skin, regulating immune and inflammatory responses, maintaining moisture levels, and regulating tissue repair.

SODIUM PCA

As children, our skin possesses an abundant supply of this remarkable compound. This substance, in addition to keeping our skin soft and wrinkle-free, actually serves to attract water into the skin from the surrounding air. As we age, the level of Sodium PCA drops 50% or more. This high-performance humectant is derived from amino acids. It is recommended for dry, delicate and sensitive skin.

 

SODIUM STEAROYL LACTYLATE

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is a natural, food-grade, emulsifiers derived from the sodium salt of lactic acid. Offering unsurpassed skin moisturization, and a smooth feel on the application it is commonly used in natural products. As an emulsifier, sodium stearoyl lactylate, or SSL, enables liquids that do not mix, such as oil and water, to remain suspended together without separating.

SQUALANE

Olive Squalane .is a natural component of human sebum and has emollient properties that soften and soothe skin. It adds a layer of oil on the skin that helps to slow water loss and keep skin soft and supple.Squalane has humectant properties that increase the water retention capacity of the skin. Moisturizers help protect sensitive skin, prevent dryness, improves skin tone and texture. Squalane is a natural lubricant and skin barrier that helps protect the skin and prevent moisture loss. It also has a high penetration efficiency that makes it an excellent transport system that helps the skin absorb other ingredients.

STEARIC ACID

Stearic acid is actually a mix of stearic acid and palmitic acid. It soothes, softens and is an emulsifier.

 

SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE

 Due to their plant origin, very high biodegradability, and skin tolerability, sucrose esters have been used in cosmetics. Lipophilic derivatives have at least two or three moles of fatty acid, with sucrose polystearate being the predominant form. Their primary feature is that they allow highly transparent lipogels to be prepared, which also contain one part of water and related active ingredients. It acts as an emulsifier and a humidating factor.

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

 Tocopheryl acetate is a specific form of vitamin-E that is used in the food and personal care industries. Vitamin-E is a substance in the human skin that occurs naturally. It can be synthetic or derived from wheat or vegetable oils in a natural way. Vitamin-E contains large quantities of beneficial antioxidants that help combat signs of aging and stressors in the setting.

TREHALOSE

 Trehalose 100 is a cosmetic grade trehalose, which is a non-reducing disaccharide that occurs naturally. It acts as a moisturizing and protecting agent which, even under extremely dry conditions, protects the skin and hair from dehydration. Trehalose is well known for its regenerative potential and can be found in a wide range of plants and animals that can tolerate extended desiccation cycles.

TRIHEPTANOIN

Triheptanoin is triglyceride of natural origin that is composed of three seven-carbon fatty acids. It retains water content of skin by forming a barrier on the skins surface.

 

XANTHAN GUM

 A sugar polymer collected from leafy green plants, it is naturally occurring thickening agent.

ZINC OXIDE

 Zinc Oxide (ZnO) is powdered, oxidized zinc derived from the naturally occurring mineral, zincite, and is commonly used in a wide range of consumer products. It is used as a bulking agent, a colorant, and as a sunscreen in over-the-counter (OTC) drug products.

ZINC SULFATE

 Zinc Sulfate is a colorless crystalline compound, resulting from the interaction of zinc with sulfuric acid.. Zinc Sulfate functions as a cosmetic astringent, a cosmetic biocide and as an oral care agent

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